![]() Both color and black and white chemicals are available in powder form with long shelf lives. Having sat through a three-hour color development class using the regular c41 process, I can definitely say, unless you really want the experience, the CineStill 2-step process is a no-brainer. I used the guest bathroom for drying, which usually takes about an hour. The negatives looked fine on first inspection- a little darker than expected-but the film was ten years old, so I didn’t sweat it. Done! (Blix and wash can be done from 75-102F.) The final step is washing for 3 minutes, during which I added Kodak Photo-Flo and swirled a couple of times. In both cases, I did minimal agitation-10 seconds initially, then four inversions/rotations every 30 seconds until done. After that, the second step is in blix for 8 minutes. (Usually, I sit the developing tank in the bath for a few seconds before adding the developer.)ĭevelopment is 3.5 minutes at 102F. There was no need to prewash the film, so I didn’t bother. heated foot bath, hanger with clips for dryingĪfter mixing both solutions, I grabbed my changing bag and a test roll (expired, 12-exposure Fuji 100 color film to experiment with, just in case I botched mixing the chemicals). The instructions are straightforward and easy to follow. From here, I mixed the developer and blix in the mason jars. Next, I placed the jars in the spa bath, filled the bath with hot tap water, and set the temp for 103F. I heated the water to 110F or so in the microwave, then filled the mason jars with a portion of it. All the advice I read on mixing said use distilled water none was available, so I used filtered water from the fridge. Once everything arrived, the first thing I did was mix a batch of chemicals. It took longer to get started than I had hoped because of a COVID-caused shipping delay of about three weeks. Finally, I ordered the CineStill 2-step kit from B&H Photo. I needed storage jars, a graduated cylinder, stirrer, and funnel. At this point, the cost of doing home development hit. Mixing jars are required, so I ordered two quart-sized mason jars. There were a few available at widely varied prices, but I found one on sale for a little more than 48.00. That seemed simple enough, so I went searching on Amazon. In the video, the guy suggested using a heated spa foot bath to control the temperature. Kid’s scissors and can opener work great for removing and cutting filmĪs I mentioned before, maintaining the temperature is the main hurdle for color processing. When it became apparent The PhotoSpot was no longer a workable solution, I watched the CineStill tutorial. ![]() I had heard of CineStill’s 2-step color process, but I didn’t want to deal with temperature issues, even with only two steps. Color has to be developed at 102 degrees, and maintaining that temperature is the hard part. ![]() At this point, I looked at my developing tanks and said, “Why not color?”Ĭolor is more complicated than black and white mainly due to temperature constraints. ![]() Yes, I could have driven to Douglasville, dropped off the film, and returned a day or two later, but that seemed to be too much of a hassle. I investigated mail-in processing but, having been spoiled by the PhotoSpot, I decided against that option. Once it became clear that was unlikely, I had to figure out how to get my film processed. When COVID popped up in March, I assumed it would disappear by summer. Since Douglasville is a 25-minute drive, typically, I drop off my film, do some shopping, have lunch, then pick up my CDs and head home. The PhotoSpot is an old-fashioned film lab that can do close to one-hour processing. Usually, I would shoot three or four rolls of color film, then drive out to The PhotoSpot in Douglasville and have them processed. By May 2020, I had a few rolls of exposed color film that had been lying around for a while.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |